FRESH TOFU
Making tofu is surprisingly similar to making cheese. With cheese, you gently heat some milk and then use either acid or an enzyme called rennet to make the milk’s proteins clump together into curds. When you’re making tofu you do the same thing, but you start with soy milk and use a different coagulant. That can be calcium sulfate or calcium chloride, which are both widely used, but today we’ll use a Japanese powder called nigari (magnesium chloride).
A lot of recipes start with making your own soy milk from whole soybeans, but that adds a lot of steps and complexity to the process. It also means the amount of protein in your soy milk is highly variable, which makes for a less predictable result.
I prefer to use banrai soy milk, which is a high-protein soy milk especially for tofu-making. I buy mine from a place called NTC Kitchen Mutual Trading Company, which specializes in Japanese products. It’s a lot quicker and easier this way, and you’ll get a very consistent result. The milk doesn’t require refrigeration until you open it, so you can keep it on hand without using up all of your fridge space.
Ingredients:
125 g banrai soy milk (roughly 1/2 cup)
3 g nigari
Directions:
Heat the soy milk over moderate heat in a small saucepan, stirring frequently to keep it from scorching on the bottom. Alternatively, heat it to a near-simmer in a microwaveable bowl or measuring cup, and then transfer it to the small saucepan. The soy milk should be hot but not simmering, ideally 160 F to 180 F when tested with an instant-read thermometer.
Sprinkle the nigari over the soy milk, and whisk to incorporate it thoroughly. Cover and turn off the heat, and let the mixture sit for about 10 minutes without stirring. If you stir while the curds are forming, it will prevent your tofu from setting properly.
Place a colander in your sink, or over a large bowl if you wish to preserve the soybean “whey” for another use. Line it with several layers of cheesecloth, or a piece of clean muslin, leaving a generous several inches of overhang.
Pour the soy mixture into the colander, pressing down with a spatula to remove as much liquid as possible. Fold the ends of the cheesecloth or muslin over the curds and press down again, then place a weight – a #10 can of vegetables, or a gallon-sized jug of water is ideal – and leave it to drain for another 10 minutes.
Unwrap the tofu, and transfer it to a clean cutting board. Cut it into 1/2-inch cubes, and serve with the miso soup.
