GNOCCHI
Historically potatoes have been cheaper and a more reliable crop than wheat, so a lot of traditional recipes use potatoes as a way to make your wheat flour last longer. Added potatoes make breads and quick breads soft and chewy, and they’re also used in a variety of noodles and dumplings. The best-known of those dumplings are Italian gnocchi. For this recipe you’ll want to buy russet potatoes, and ideally they should be old-crop potatoes. As russets age in storage they slowly convert more of their natural sugars to starch, and for gnocchi you want the starchiest, fluffiest potatoes you can find. The older they are the thicker and duller-looking their skin will be. Newer potatoes will work, but your gnocchi won’t be as light and fluffy as they otherwise could be.
Ingredients
2 lb russet potatoes (about 3 large)
2 cups AP flour
2 whole eggs
egg yolk
Method
Boil the potatoes whole, in their jackets, until they’re just tender when pierced with a toothpick or skewer.
Drain the cooked potatoes, and remove their skins and any blemishes with the tip of a paring knife. The potatoes will be hot, so either lay them on your work surface to peel them or hold them in a gloved hand or clean kitchen towel.
Shred the still-hot potatoes onto a clean plate or cutting board. If you have a potato “ricer” that’s ideal, otherwise use the large side of a box grater. At this point either return the potato water to the burner to come back to a boil, or start a fresh pot of water.
Spread the potatoes evenly across the surface, fluffing them lightly with a fork, so they can cool and steam can escape. The potatoes should be as dry as possible for gnocchi, and the steam that escapes reduces their moisture content.
Let the potatoes cool to room temperature before proceeding. Once they’re ready, sprinkle about ¾ of the flour over top of the potatoes. With your fingers, gently toss and rub the potatoes and flour together until they’re mixed and evenly distributed. It should resemble a pile of coarse crumbs.
Mound the potato mixture gently and make a well in the middle. Whisk the eggs together, and pour them into the well. Working with your fingers or a scraper, gently combine the dry ingredients with the egg to make a soft, slightly sticky dough. Don’t overwork it, and add more flour only if absolutely necessary.
To test the dough, pinch off a small piece, roll it briefly on your cutting board to make a ball, and drop it into the boiling water. If it holds together, you can proceed with making your gnocchi. If it falls apart, add a little more flour to the dough (handling it carefully) and try again. Proceed once the test dumpling holds together.
Divide the dough into 6 or 8 balls, and roll each one on into a rope about the thickness of your thumb, approximately ½ inch. Cut each rope into segments about ¾-inch long.
Roll the gnocchi on a grooved “gnocchi board,” if you have one, to give it the traditional ridged pattern. This is optional, but helps them retain sauce. If you don’t have a gnocchi board, you can roll them on the back of a fork instead to create the ridges.
Toss the shaped gnocchi with a light dusting of flour, and let them rest for 20 to 30 minutes. This gives them time to dry slightly at the surface, which helps them hold together when cooked.
Working in batches, drop the gnocchi into the boiling water a handful or two at a time. Cook at a low boil for 3 to 4 minutes, until the gnocchi have all floated to the surface. Remove them to a large bowl, using a slotted spoon. Toss them lightly with olive oil, butter or a spoonful of your sauce to keep them from sticking together, and keep warm.
Repeat until all the gnocchi are cooked. Toss with your choice of sauce, and serve immediately.
Sauce
Ingredients
2 large white or yellow onion sliced
2 tbsp oil or butter
2 cups tomato sauce (see recipe above)
2 tbsp crushed Calabrian chilies
¾ cup cream
Salt and pepper to taste (optional)
Method
Heat a heavy skillet over low heat. Add the oil, then the onions. Cook at low temperature, stirring periodically, until the onions are uniformly golden brown (approximately 35 to 50 minutes). If they show signs of sticking to the pan and browning past the golden stage, add a tablespoon or two of water, stir the onions, and reduce heat further.
Once the onions are caramelized, add 2 cups of tomato sauce from the above recipe and the Calabrian chilies, and stir until heated through. Add the cream and return to a simmer. Taste, and adjust the seasoning if necessary with salt and pepper.
Add the cooked and drained gnocchi to the pan, and toss them gently until just coated. Portion onto serving plates and serve immediately.
Note: You may wish to add 3-4 tablespoons of water to the pan when you first add the onions. As the water boils away it steams and softens the onions, helping them release their juices more quickly. This accelerates the caramelization process.